Showing posts with label vacation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label vacation. Show all posts

Monday, June 4, 2018

azulejos, the Portuguese tiles


I've noted in past posts and shown a few pictures of the tile work in Portugal and so I quickly became particularly attracted to them on the houses and shops early on taking more than a few pictures not only of the tiles in situ but close-ups of the tiles themselves. I've created a Pinterest gallery of most, if not all, the pictures I took and you can see them all here-tiles or here-tiled buildings but here are a few examples... 






and some of my favorites...







Hard to pick just a few.

So, Friday, Denise and I walked to the National Tile Museum Museu Nacional do Azulejo which is housed in a former convent founded in 1509 and chronicles the culture, history, and art of tile making in Portugal from the 15th century to modern times. The azulejos (link to a brief history) are a big part of Portugal's national identity and they are still being used and designed by contemporary artists in urban development.









Hard to pick just a few.

the convent chapel

The museum is also working to categorize all the boxes and boxes and boxes of tiles in storage and actively restores tiles and tile sets.

Looking through the glass walls at the work areas...






I've saved this post for last because of all that I saw and experienced in Portugal, I think the tile will be the thing that will impact my work, maybe the way I approach my work. Anyway, I have a few ideas that I want to pursue if Rocky ever gets done. He has shown up this week, work a half day but he was trying to finish up what he was working on. Hopefully I'll have his full attention Monday.


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Sunday, June 3, 2018

Sintra and other points of interest


Sintra is a town and a region in the hills in the greater metropolis of Lisbon. We arranged for a guided tour so on Saturday our guide picked us up about 8:30 for the drive to Sintra and our first stop at what he called the most beautiful castle in Portugal, the Palace of Pena, at the top of the tallest hill on a twisty road through a beautiful forest. And he was right. It is gorgeous. Built around a monastery dating from 1511 and abandoned in 1834, King Ferdinand refurbished the monastery for a holiday retreat and then added a new wing in the mid 1800s. At the same time, he ordered the empty hillsides to be planted with trees from all over the world and with gardens and winding paths. The hill is now forested with over 500 different trees. Link for more info. The palace reflects influences from the Moors, the Templars, and German romanticism. The red section is the old palace built from the monastery and the yellow and tiled section is the new palace.


the Neptune gate




some of the elaborate detail is carved stone

some is carved wood

some is trompe l'oeil



a niche tiled with sea shells, a space for monks to meditate in solitude

view from an upper terrace

After touring the castle our guide gave us an hour to wander the town 

Portuguese pottery, I regret now not bringing back at least a small plate

before we headed to the beach for a really nice lunch at a family run hotel and then off to the western most point of Europe.




We returned to Lisbon driving along the shore and passed under the aqueduct started in 1731 and though still unfinished began bringing water to Lisbon in 1745. In 1755, a devastating earthquake struck Lisbon destroying the city but not one stone was lost from the aqueduct. Modern engineers still claim the aqueduct over the Alcantara Valley couldn't have been built, especially the largest pointed arch, but there it stands.

image via Wikipedia

The last point of interest our guide showed us before dropping us back at the apartment was the last remaining section of the defensive wall built by the Moors when they occupied the southern part of Portugal in the 8th century, finally being defeated by King Alfonso in the mid 12th century.



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Lisbon




Saturday, June 2, 2018

Lisbon


Getting tired of hearing about my trip yet? Only one more week to go. I'm trying to condense Lisbon into one post except for two days. Those days get their own.

The apartment in Lisbon, or more properly Lisboa, was within walking distance of the waterfront on the nearby main avenue, about a 30 – 45 minute walk depending on how fast you walked and how many times you stopped, in a residential neighborhood on the fifth floor (yes, with an elevator). After the long day of driving from the Villa to the Lisbon airport, turning in the car, cab rides to the apartment, and check-in, we were all ready for dinner. 

view of Lisboa from my bedroom window at the front

the view from the back dining area

Jane was leaving the next morning for home so we went out for a farewell dinner at a seafood restaurant nearby where we learned the difference between seafood and fish and also were introduced to the Portuguese speciality that is only available at a certain time of the year...snails. Not the escargot of France but small, like the ones in your garden, snails.


Thursday, I stayed in in the morning needing a bit of rest and solitude while Denise went to the Marionette Museum (and I kick myself for not going with her for I never made my way on my own) and Catharine and Vicki walked around the city and then later I went out exploring the general neighborhood, getting some soup for lunch at a pastelaria, and bought some strawberries and apricots from a street vendor since the fragrance almost knocked me down walking by. Friday was much the same with Denise staying in and Catharine, Vicki, and I walking down to the waterfront and stopping for lunch and then exploring some of the old town neighborhoods with narrow cobblestone streets and pedestrian ways walking up and down hill as Lisboa is built on 7 hills.

St. George's castle in the distance which we did not visit

lots of oblique streets and buildings with rounded corners




where the ships set sail from during the exploration age

There were a lot of performers of one kind or another on the large pedestrian plaza that took up the last 6 blocks or so of the avenue leading to the arch. These guys were great, playing and singing with this one hitting the tambourines with high kicks.


Skipping ahead two days we basically did the same thing on Monday only this time Catharine and I visited 3 tile stores, two that sell high quality reproductions and one that deals in antique tiles, while Vicki struck out on her own. The prices dashed my hope of taking some home.


the antique dealer's back room

like small jewels

the facade of one of the tile stores

Tuesday, my last day in Portugal, we went to two markets...the 'thieves' market or Fiera do Ladre, a giant flea market two days a week, Saturdays and Tuesdays. Since our Saturday was otherwise occupied, we went on Tuesday and from there to the Time Out market for lunch which was an indoor fruit/vegetable/flower market and a mall of different restaurants/eateries with common tables to sit at, kind of like a food court on steroids only it was all really good food. Took a cab back to the apartment, I packed while Catharine and Vicki provided me with dinner and I left the next morning.

Lisboa, like every part of Portugal I saw, was clean, some cigarette butts in between cobblestones, that's the only trash I saw. What they did have though was tagging, a lot of tagging. I was amazed how much there was. Basically every street level facade was subject. And one place we regularly passed in our outings was tagged during our visit. I have pictures. I queried our guide on Saturday about the presence and apparent toleration of such. He didn't seemed concerned as it wasn't gang related. 



I did see some interesting street art.

this one in Oporto



not exactly street art but she drew us into the shop



and this tree




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